Main Office: Morelia, Mich. (443) 324.2790
Apatzingán, Mich. (453) 534.5059 | Lázaro C. Mich. (753) 537.5296
Zihuatanejo, Gro Tel (755) 544.8665 y 544.8100
Care of your pool:
RECOMMENDATIONS FOR HAVING A CLEAN POOL
INTRODUCTION
How to get the water of your pool to stay clean and clear all the time?
It is very simple
1.- With a proper filtration and physical cleaning
2.- With a correct chemical treatment
In these brief pages we give you a simple description of the elements that your pool is made of, both mechanical and chemical, we comment on the way they work and the steps, both routinely and occasional, that you have to go through to maintain the pool always in perfect conditions of cleanliness and beauty.
Proper filtration
The filter gathers the solid material in the water, if the filter fails, they will remain there causing turbidity and consuming chemicals unnecessarily. The first step is to check the sand of the filter and see if it is complete and in good shape. The lifespan of the sand is more or less of two years, so in that time it has to be changed. If the backwashes are done properly and its left clean in winter, this step could be extended a couple of years more.
Chemical treatment of the water
New or filtered water, if it looks transparent, it’s probable that it contains contaminants that can cause its decomposition, damages to the facilities, infections to the bathers, filtration alone doesn’t eliminate bacteria, virus, fungi, algae, sweat, urine, cosmetics and other contaminants.
All this is immediately eliminated and while you get clear water and chemically pure- using chlorine, the best disinfectant and algaecide and the most utilized worldwide.
This is made up of 2 simple stages:
- Gather leafs and large things that must not go into the filter (up to 3 or 4 mm)
- Filter solids (not dissolved) small solids, dust.
Duration of filtering Residential 4 to 8 hours daily
Public or institutional 12 to 24 hours daily
Vacuuming: according to whatever your needs are
Chemical treatment
This is made up of 2 routine actions and some occasional adjustments.
Check and adjust the balance of water
When the water is taken from the city system, this has already been “balanced” to make it drinkable. A water in “BALANCE” is one that has the proper pH (not acid nor basic).It also has the correct “TOTAL ALKALINITY” (amount of bicarbonates, carbonates and hydroxides). When well water is used it can be out of “balance” and must be adjusted. The same can happen in cases of rain or because of other external factors.
How do I check and adjust the pH and the total alkalinity of the water?
The pH
It is a measurement that determines the acidity and basicity (opposite of acidity) of the water. This is measured on a scale of 0 to 14. Values less than 7 means acidity and over 7 means basicity. The right pH of a pool must be lightly basic in other words between 7.2 and 7.6 The ideal is 7.4 The following table indicates what happens when the ph is not on the correct level between 7.2 y 7.6. It is important to have an analyzer or BIOKIT handy to determine the pH.
This is very economic and easy to use. It also works for analyzing the amount of chlorine in the water.
Maintaining the pool
MAINTAINING THE ROUTINE
Everyday:
Operate the pump and filter.
- In a residential pool from 2 to 6 hours daily.
- In institutional pools from 4 to 8 hours daily.
- Trichloro fine powder is used, apply daily or every third day from 12 to 20 grams daily for every
10,000 liters of water, in this case 100 grams, this powder must dilute in a bucket of water and apply along the length of the pool with the filter working during 3 hours in the afternoon and the next day vacuum, because all the contaminants will go to the bottom and the water will be transparent.
2 times a week:
Check the pH and in case adjust it to between 7.2 and 7.6
- Check the chlorine level and in case adjust it to between 1.0 and 2.0 ppm.
- Remove the leaves and other materials Note: In institutional and public pool its recommended to do these activities daily above all when well water is used.
Weekly:
- Brush down and vacuum pool.
- Clean the skimmer basket and the hair trap, along with the pump. Remember, you must backwash after aspirating to eliminate all material aspired. If your pool is used excessively or gets a lot of dust and other contaminants, do this more often.
Biweekly:
- Add ALGEN according to the labels instructions. With this you will avoid green water and turbidity and avoid possible algae growth.
Every 2 or 3 weeks:
- Chlorinate the pool to eliminate "chloramines" and other accumulated contaminants such as seat, deodorants, etc. This means applying 300 grams of powdered chlorine in the afternoon, filter during 3 hours and let it set until the next morning when the contaminants will appear at the bottom and you must suck up the pool..
Occasionally:
- After a heavy rain, or many swimmers or contamination of the pool it must be super chlorinated because the regular chlorine as used by the excesses.
Problems and its solutions
For diverse reasons, problems may occur that alter the conditions of the water. No need to worry, there is always a logical explanation and a solution and POOLS AND GARDENS has a product and a procedure handy for resolving them. Analyze and define calmly the problem, consult our guide on the possible causes and take the correct action.
PROBLEM |
CAUSE |
SOLUTION |
Turbid water The water is opaque due to the suspended material. |
. Excess swimmers.
|
Backwash the sand of the filter more frequently |
Turbid and green water the water turns opaque and turbid and green |
.Excess swimmers. |
. Backwash the sand of the filter more frequently |
GREEN WATER WITH SUSPENDED ALGAE The water gets turbid and completely green, the bottom disappears, green stains appear on the walls and floors. |
. PH out of range, normally high. |
. Exhaustive check up of the filtering system |
EXCESSIVE CONSUMPTION OF CHLORINE The water does not present an unpleasant aspect, however the chlorine does not remain al day |
. Low pH of the water |
. Adjust the pH of the water to the range of 7.2 to 7.6 |
IRRITATIÓN IN THE EYES AND SKIN CHLORINE ODOR Red eyes and itchy skin. |
. Water out of balance |
. Adjust the pH of the water to the range of 7.2 to 7.6 |
COLORFUL WATER Presence of metals . Iron brown |
. Low pH in water. |
. Adjust the pH of the water to the range of 7.2 to 7.6 |
DEVELOPEMENT OF ALGAE Continuous problems of algae in the pool water, mainly stuck to the walls and the bottom. |
. Contamination of the filtering media |
. Check the sand of the filter if it is caked and shows pitting and contamination, change it. |
WRACK It manifests as stains in the wall and bottom of the pool. It should not be brushed, because that is how it spreads |
. Low levels of chlorine |
. Apply treatment with ALGI NET PLUS / BLACK ALGEN IF THE WRACK IS ALIVE, DO NOT BRUSH THE POOL BECAUSE THIS IS HOW IT SPREADS. |
PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS IN FILTERS AND POOL PUMPS
COMMON QUESTIONS
A primary objective for a pool is to keep it clean and clear. This can only be achieved through a combination of a good filtration and a proper chemical balance.
Your filtration system must operate the necessary time daily to circulate through the filter all the pool water at least once. This normally is achieved in a period of 6-8 hours. Anyway the required time should be determined by the base volume of your pool, like the average flow of your pump. All pool pumps are designed for continuous use, even though this is not required in most pools.
A proper chemical balance is very important for maintaining clean, clear and healthy water. You should consult your distributor about the chemical requirements, such as the frequency of its use. The guides are based on an appropriate chemical balance, requires a level free of chlorine in your pool 1 to 3 ppm and pH of 7.2 to 7.6. If these levels are not maintained algae and bacteria grow in your pool, which will demand from the filtering system more filtration time and more work to clean the water... obviously, depending on how sever the problem is.
PROBLEMS IN POOL PUMPS
The pump in your pool is the heart of the filtration system. It normally comes with a 115 or 230 volt engine in a phase. It makes a wheel spin inside the pump housing that generates pressure that circulates the water. The pump is equipped with a hair trap; where there is a punnet whose job is to capture the impurities that could jam the housing. It is important to maintain the punnet clean, so the pump can get all the water so it can function properly.
Why are there air bubbles in the pump's hair trap?
.The cover of the hair trap could be loose, cracked, or the ring packaging could be damaged or missing.
.Examine or substitute in case of being damaged
.Check the water level in the pool, it could be too low and allows the pump to suck up air through the skimmer. The skimmer's gate can stay stuck and not allow the water to get in the skimmer. Also verify that there are no toys blocking the skimmer..
.Monitor if there is any leak in the suction, turning off the pump and inspecting the pipes and accessories built in.
Why is there a big air bubble in the hair trap of my pump?
. Don't Worry! In the first launch of a pump, the high velocity and the turbulence of the water that gets to the hair trap of the pump captures some air and normally takes it back to the pool. The combination of the “fin” 8the entrance to the hair trap) and the force of the suction of 2¨reduces to minimal speed and turbulence of the water, so the water that reaches the pump practically eliminates the air bubble that could have been picked up over the fin during the first launch. This air bubble is not the result of a “suction leak” It has no effect on the functionality of the pump. Your pump will give 100%.
My pump is working, but I don't have pressure in the pool. Why?
.This is commonly a conception. You have a lot of pressure, but little flow of water. This is normally caused by a dirty filter. You can verify this by reading the pressure on the manometer of the filter. If the filter is dirty, the pressure should be between 20-25 psi, and if the filter is clean this will be between 10-15 psi. If it is dirty it has to be backwashed and the pressure should diminish on the filter, allowing a free flow of the water.
. Check if any valve is partially closed on the return lines or if there is any other type of blockage on the return line. The housing can also be filled with any kind of rubbish.
My pump doesn’t prime?
.Most pumps are auto primers. Anyway, the first time you run it it should fill the housing of the hair trap with water.
.The pump is possibly at a high surface level, requiring a longer period to prime. Ideally the pump should be at surface level or beneath it.
.There could possibly be a leak in suction. See: Why are there air bubbles in the pump's hair trap?
Why does my pump heat up when it is working?
.Engines heat up when the pump is working, because the seal transmits some heat because of the air produced by the engine. Make sure that there is enough ventilation around the engine. Maintain, around the engine, an area that is free of construction materials because it could block the flow of air towards the engine. Also keep paint and any other flammable thing away from the engine.
.If you sense that the heating is abnormal; you should hire a qualified electrician to check the voltage and amperage of the engine when it is operating.
1. Low voltage: This is typically caused by the energy transmitted by the cable, being that is under the normal and/or the cable is to long to provide the proper voltage to the engine. We do not recommend using an extension to supply energy to the pump. If your think this is the problem, contact an electrician to check your installation.
2. The engine is clogged: something is possibly clogging the housings causing it to jam and overwork.
3. Engine components: Some component(s) of the engine could possibly be deteriorating
Why does my pump turn off alone?
If the motor is turning off and the pump has just been installed, check that your connection voltage is the appropriate one. Most of the pumps have double voltage; this means that they have 115v or 230v. Every pump is wired for 230v from manufacturers, this is why the pump has to be changed to 115v, contact an electrician or a technician from our company.
The motor has a superior limit that makes it turn off if it is overheating. It will restart automatically when cool. The continuous act of turning on and off the pump may shorten the motor’s useful life. Overheating is commonly caused by the ampere. The ones of high amperage are described in the previous question.
Possibly, the pump has been installed with an automatic timer that controls the uptime, so you don’t have to turn he pump on and off manually. Check the on and off times.
Why is my pump too noisy?
The noise of the pump is commonly attributed to the turbulence, vibration and mechanic noise.
1. Turbulence. It is commonly described as a “gluglú” noise, which occurs if there is air mixed with water in the pump. An air suction can be caused by a suction leak, by being too little suction, or if the suction or the skimmer is partially blocked.
2. Vibration. Is the amplification of the normal sound of a pump, it will decrease if the base of the pump is firmly fixed.
3. Mechanic Noise. It is usually identified as a squeal. The common causes are: motor pieces that must be replaced and it should be replaced by a qualified motor fixer. Also check the driving and diffuser, it can be rubbing.
PROBLEMS WITH SAND FILTERS FOR POOLS
Sand filters are the most common filters for pools, for ease of backwashing or cleaning. It can filter 30 to 50 µ. The type of the sand that is used is very important for the effectiveness of the filter. We recommend that the sand is silica #20 (.45 to .55 mm) for Jacuzzi filters, other brands use a thicker sand, this reduce the efficiency. Those filters start the process pumping the water of the filter all the way up, then the water download through de sand bed. The sand traps dirt particles and when the water reaches the collector bottom, it is returned to the cleaned pool.
Why is the pressure of my filter so high?
A high pressure usually means that the sand filter is dirty and needs a backwash. Follow the backwash instructions “How do I backwash my filter?”) Or refer to the manual for using the filter.
Check out that the valves of the lines back to the pool are not closed and/or there’s nothing blocking those lines.
After some time, the sand of your filter can get calcifies or chemical saturated. If this has happened you can use some product that loosens sand and allows cleaning it with backwash. Sometimes the sand has fulfilled its useful life and you would have to replace it.
Do I need to backwash everyday? How do I know when to backwash?
It’s not necessary to backwash everyday. It’s not recommended to backwash too often. With time, the effectiveness of the sand bed to stop particles for itself improves.
You have to backwash the filter when pressure increases 10 psi over the normal pressure (10-15 psi). Normally you have to backwash when the pressure is between 20 to 25 psi.
How do I backwash my filter?
Turn off the pump.
Move the valve to “Backwash”
Turn on the pump with the bottom valve and drainage open.
Normally, it will take 2 to 3 minutes to backwash the dirt in the filter. If your filter has a sight glass, backwash until water gets out clean (if at first water doesn’t get out on the sight, wait until it appears).
Turn off the pump.
Putt the valve on “Rinse”. Turn on the pump and rinse for 20 to 30 seconds. This action removes any dirt trapped on the filter during the backwash.
Turn off the pump
Move the valve to “Filter” and turn on the pump again.
Why doesn’t my filter keep my pool clean?
Possibly, you don’t let the pump run long enough. Usually, you have to turn on the pump 6 to 8 hours daily or until it has passed the entire volume of the water pool once a day.
Check out your chemical balance. If the balance is not the appropriate one, water can get turbid.
Be sure that your filter has the appropriate amount of sand. Remove the filter valve and check the sand level, if you have a laser filter, the level should be 2.5 to 3.75 ms above the basket. Also be sure that the superior and inferior tubes of the filter are perfectly connected to the basket.
How old is the sand? The sand has to be replaced every 5 years to guarantee an appropriate filtration.
I have algae in my pool and my filter is not cleaning it, why is this?
The filters of the pool can’t filter living algae. The algae have to be killed by super chlorination. Once the algae are death, it can be removed with the assistance of a flocculant.
When the valve is in “filter” the water escapes through the backwash line; why?
A little portion of dirt or sand can be trapped between the rotor pack and the valve plate. To clean the valve, press the handle of the valve for a second when the pump is working. This will clean the dirt or damage. Clean the valve body and pack the rotor with water or replace the rotor if its necessary.
How often do I have to change the sand of my filter?
As preventive maintenance, it’s recommended to replace it every 5 years.
How do I change the sand of my filter?
Put the valve in “test” position (closed). Take out the tank valve.
The easiest way for taking out the sand is using a solid/liquid vacuum. (Note: Put a garbage bag on the vacuum) If you don’t have access to this type of vacuum, you will have to get it out with a bucket, make sure you don’t damage the interior system of the filter when you reach the tank’s bottom. We don’t recommend scratching the filter walls to take out the sand, because with this action the inferior system of the filter could be damaged.
Once the sand is removed, fill half of the tank with water. Cover the pipe’s estrada (also cover the holes of the screws where the valve sets, if it applies), so sand can’t enters.
Slowly, put the appropriate amount of sand in the tank.
Remove what you put to cover the superior tube entrance. Replace the rotor and the punnet (if it applies)
Re-install the valve.
I have very low flow on my pool returns, pressure is low and the water of the return line enters.
The hoses or pipe are connected to the filter in a wrong way. Three connections are appointed on the valve: PUMP (of the pump), RETURN (to the returns: bottom, skimmer and sweeper) and WASTE (to drain). Be sure that hoses or pipe are connected to the marked port.
Air its accumulating in the filter tank and when I turn it off, I notice air that returns to the pump and the pool through the skimmer
The bottom of the valve has a small diameter hole; this allows air to return to the pool through the returns. This hole has been capped and you need to take out the valve, unplugging this relief hole, inserting a wire (e.g. a clip) or something that fits the hole.
There are many possible positions in the filter valve. What does each position do?
Filter Water is distributed over the sand bed. Water flows descend through the sand bed, while dirt is trapped in the sand. Clean water enters the distribution system at the bottom of the tank. This clean water is conducted by the central tube of the filter, back to the pool.
Backwash Water is conducted by the central tube of the filter and enters the distribution system at the bottom of the tank. The water flows ascend through the sand bed cleaning its dirt upward and taking it out of the filter by the drain line.
Rinse Water is distributed over the sand bed. Water filters descend through the sand bed to set it, if it’s after a backwash. Water enters the inferior distribution system of the tank and it is conducted by the central tube and discharged in the drain line.
Circulation The water flows pass directly by the valve and return to the pool (without entering the tank). This position is used if you want to circulate the water without it passing through the sand bed.
Waste Water flows pass directly by the valve and flushed down the drain line (without entering the tank). This position is used to aspirate the pool with big amounts of dirt. (E.g.when is flocculated)
Winter This position leaves the rotor up above the valve plate to keep the rotor seal with no presure on it, during periods of nonuse. This position also permits the air enter to the tank, when it’s not draining. This position doesn’t applies to the standard weather of Mexico, because it is designed for seasons of intense cold, when water freezes (for example)
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